training

Iv been doing a lot of crossfit for the last two years but after meeting with Paul Fearn and spending the day at Awesome walls in stoke on trent, he has sent me a training Plan. The plan..... as ever is to improve my grade, so in the lead up to this season i will be focusing on my weaknesses (obvious really) bouldering and power endurance.

Training started today with 40 mins bouldering, working on a problem of which I could do the individual moves but took the session to be able link them. I struggled to find a problem of apropriate diffculty, but got there in the end.

I ended the session with a power endurance session of:

3 sets of 90sec's of
5 sec's 2 hands on the finger board
3 sec's 1 hand on the board ect, ect
with 7 minutes rest between

i dont have a finger board at my training wall so used 2 simalar holds on the over hanging wall

Im currently recovering from "golfers elbow" so caution seems to be the word of the moment! something im very mind full of while bouldering on the moon board

for rehab of my elbow im doing eccentric forearm curls with my arm resting on a table (3x10) there is a detailed arcticle on this that i seem to have misplaced, but ill stick the link on here when i find it (so watch this space)

Im currently wobbeling up 6b+ sport and was leading E3 5c last sept

so watch this space and lets see what happens?

Bouldering thursday



end of the first week and still going well 2 and half hours bouldering on thursday night, have set a problem on the moon board that i can just about do most of the moves on it, so ill be looking to link them next week.

injury wise the elbow is doing fine no real pain actualy am having less pain than before i started training, started back running this week (first time in 18 months, due to planter facitis) taking it very easy only doing mile circuts every other day to compliment the climbing.
 

1st update

been training for three weeks now, the usual ups and downs aside i have witnessed a defenite improvment. Iv linked the boulder peoblems i set in the first week and can move through them after warming up. We have instaled a campus board to the wall which i now use for the finger strenght sessions, this made a big difference actually it would appear that the holds i was useing for the finger hangs were too big and i realy felt worked after the sessions this week. today was the Power endurance session (4 cercits of 25 moves on the moon board with 7 minutes rest between sets aiming to fail on the last set) i feel there is a lack of variaty of holds on the moon board which has led to me failing to fail on my last set (dissapointing) so did an extra set and some bouldering for good mesure

so moving forward:

im in the process of get the next size up of moon hold (sort of medium sized) that i will donate to the wall, to hopefully help with the variaty (and my poor imagination)

need to set some more boulder problems on the moon board.

i think my bouldering sessions need to be longer at the mo they are about an hour and a half would like to push that to at least two hours

need to set an outside bench mark, im going to use a sports crag near my centre as it has a nice mix of routes up to 7c so i think i will measure myslef againt the 7a there

along side this iv been trying to get back out running after 18 months off with plantir faceitis (tenditis of the heel) am taking very slow doing only about a mile everyother day but the heel is feeling good.